Week 1 & 2 Calontir Clothing Challenge

Week one really wasn’t a week as it started on a Thursday, but none the less it was productive.

When last I had worn my Camicia I had finished the neckline quickly with a little gather along the top. It did the job up until I really started to move and clean things at the end of 12th Night. The single line of stitching over the gathering gave and thankfully at a moment I had a free hand to keep it on me.

So step one was get the Camicia wearable.

I still wanted the cute ruffle, not a historical choice as far as my quick research can tell. But aside from the fact it will not be judged, I have a practical need for the neckline to expand and shrink as there is a high chance of baby #2 in the next year. That is neither here nor there for this challenge.

My method was to zig-zag down using upholstery thread a length of wool yarn I had on hand. I felt keeping the zigzag and yarn and machine all moving forward was a challenge as I couldn’t go to fast I had to make sure the yarn didn’t get caught by the needle nor wander all over the top.

I think I did a good job!

It is very comfy and I can see why portraits of the era have folks laying about in them.

Step 2: Drawers

Judged Piece

I had found a tutorial on making drawers here. The catch? It was using the Bara method. I have no clue what on earth that was nor how to use it. I contemplated winging it for half a moment as I franticly googled for an answer. Thankfully google algorithms took pity on me and lo and behold the Modren Maker had a short video on the Bara method they had just posted!

It wasn’t enough to really grasp the process for me but lucky out library has a very robust interlibrary loan system and I was able to get a copy of the Modern Maker. Of course, if you are going to get one book you find about 5 more you could need so I ordered those as well.

At this point, I was waiting for a stack of books to be picked up. (Bless curbside pick up!) so I did the rational thing, work on some other project things.

The Pocket

Judged Piece

This was something I had been planing as a later thing. However as I was waiting on books and feeling behind with seeing others progress I decided to go ahead and start.

I started with some basic research to see if I could find any soft of pattern or guide to go off.

I didn’t have much luck as most people talked about making their own but lacked a pattern or measurements. But I stumbled across Lady Astriðr Ylgr’s project on the Outlands Arts & Sciences Portal. She listed that she used a book called Il Burato- for 16th-century embroidery designs as the inspiration for her work.

I was able to locate the book as it is part of the public domain. I need to translate some of the first bit so I have some idea of what I am working with. But I found a pattern I really liked

At this point I said forget it I should be able to mock up a pattern. I wanted the pocket to be able to hold my phone at the very least…maybe Remmy (My small travel Raven) and a few snacks for the small one but I digress. A few rough measurements of my phone and, I setteld on a size before mocking up what I thought would be a correct shape in GIMP. I scaled the embroidery pattern over to give me an idea of how it would look.

Then I made a mock-up.

Good thing I did as the only thing that really worked was the shape.

I was unable to fit my hand in the slit, I had layers out of order, and the top was just a mess. Needless to say it was back to the drawing board with the whole thing.

I feel I can fix all the issues I came up against and hopefully get a working mock-up so I can start the embroidery.

Meanwhile, I was able to pick up my books. So I settled into reading as much as I could. The Modern Maker’s explanation of the Bara system in the book was enough that I feel like I should be able to use it to get clothing that fits. I also found a jacket I liked and is correct for time and place. That should save me as my original plan was to scale the one from Morgan Donner’s site and then adjust the size. Starting from the correct size should save my sanity. The Janet Arnolds book was packed with information and will require some more reading for me to really get it.

I had picked up a book on needlepoint but was disappointed as it was more an “I found with in a manuscript and made a modern cross stitch” vs what was done in period.

So I ended the week happily making my first set of Bara tapes…until I ran out of ribbon on the last tape.

Guess I will be starting week three with a trip to the fabric store.

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