Calontir Clothing Challenge 2020

To start for those who want some live narration of my journey in to this Challenge head on over to Youtube and check out the vlog I plan to keep there. For more frequent updates or if reading is more your thing get ready for the next 3 months of challenge filled updates!

With no events to force me into making new garb, and some encouragement from a few friends, I joined up with the Calontir Clothing Challenge!

Basically starting Oct 1st until Jan 31st I have to complete 4 layers, Undergarments, Overdress, Outerwear, and an accessory! Easy right? Well, one of those layers has to be a different discipline than the other three. That is if I sew the first 3, the last one has to be something like leatherwork, or metal, or jewelry.

Also I have to 100% sew this outfit my self with only outside guidance. *Gulp*

So what am I planing on doing?

I plan to remake my 1560’s Venetian gown.

For those of you who read my post on the original dress, you know I had made this dress in a week. While I loved the dress, I knew I had flaws and corrections I need to make before it could be worn again.

I really do want to wear it again. It was so pretty and elegant and so not what I normally make.

The Challenge has several categories and I am entering on the Modern Recreationist on the Intermediate level.

For reference

Modern Recreationist – This category uses more modern techniques and materials to create garb. The rules are relaxed, but more historic choices will be rewarded in the historical accuracy section of judging. The finished outfit MUST be an appropriate outfit for SCA use at more than an ‘attempt at garb’ level. Avoid fantasy costumes, modern clothing, etc. Deviations from period practice are allowed, but should never be abused.

//calontirclothingchallenge.com

I plan to make as many historical choices as I can, however I know if I want this done this century I have to use my machine and probably modern construction choices.

The Game Plan

The Underlayer

I plan to start here with what is probably my most challenging piece.

Drawers.

I can not for the love of anything get pants to come outright. They are either to short in the crotch, I sew them way off or just maul them into something unusable. Out of the pairs I have made only one worked. That was only because someone else did all the math and then said sew this line and that line as they watched.

I have found an online tutorial and I am hoping to work the math out.

So why not use my camicia?

Because I am not sewing and cutting the Camicia from scratch it will not meet the project guidelines. Yes, I could remake it but honestly, I have to keep this to a slim budget. There is nothing wrong with the one I made, it just needs the neckline re-sewn.

I plan to get some cord and zig zag over it to make it a drawstring top. Hopefully it will let me keep the cute ruffle I had in the first one.

The Dress

For this, I am going back to the paper pattern. One of the big issues I had was I added a seam allowance that was far too much in some places and way to little in others.

My hope is to start with reducing the strap size and moving the underarm scythe to have less of a gap. I will be doing a walk around to try and pinpoint other issues sometime this week.

I also know my fashion fabric needs to have a better seam allowance and the under wool and canvas needs far less.

Fabric wise I have more than enough of the original blue to just remake it. I do however need to buy more wool and possibly canvas pending what I can locate in my stash. I will also need more tape to add laces and new boning.

The skirt is going to be recycled off the old dress. This is actually a period thing to reuse expensive fabric. Aside from it being the right square, it is basically a redo. I need to add the strip to the top to help fluff it out and a guard to the skirt to make it functional. I may add some other decorative stripes.

The Outer layer-

A Zimarra- basically a fancy outer jacket.

This one is 100% scratch-made from pattern up. I have a beautiful gold brocade that I plan to use on the final and will be looking for a black lining to accent it.

This is also a bit of a worry for me as it includes scaling a pattern. Something I have never done. But I have been watching Morgan Donner and she had several tutorials on scaling patterns so we will see what that gets me.

The Accessory.

My hope is to make a little zibellini! Aka a flea pelt. This is my not sewing item. But it is contingent on getting the Mink off the stole….or locating a suitable replacement on eBay. I will be using clay to mask him up and then as many sparkly jewels to bling him out.

If this fails well… Stay tuned to me panicking and making something else.

I will also be working up a Partlet as living in the land of the sunshine and the fact I tend to be lobster color if left in the sun, extra sun protection is a must.

I do plan on making sleeves. I need to work out a pattern for those yet.

I also plan to get a new veil and add some pretty beads to the edges.

There may be a pocket, IF I don’t have to panic on the zibellini. This will be embroidered to attempt to complete for the Sponsored Prizes.

My timeline

I hope in the first two weeks to get the Drawers and Camicia done.

After that I have a plan but fully expect that it will all go out the window between the Holidays and Pandemic life. But I do plan to have things done by Dec so if this do slide sideways I have some recovery time.

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